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The finished Torpedo Dog, complete with red chile mustard in bread toasted from the inside, sits in a steel basket, ready for a customer.

The finished Torpedo Dog, complete with red chile mustard in bread toasted from the inside, sits in a steel basket, ready for a customer.

Food column: Five favorite food joints satisfy student cravings

The Bricklight District, centered on the first block of Harvard Drive SE, has experienced revitalization in the last few years, and the past several months have given the UNM community even more reasons to visit.

One of the newer additions is Torpedo Dog, located in the seemingly cursed storefront at 115 Harvard Drive SE. A number of small Mexican eateries tried and failed at the location over the last several years, but owner Damian Montoya is looking for success with a novel treat. Torpedo Dogs are a clever, handheld food. The bun is a small baguette toasted from the inside on a heated spike. The bun is then filled with any one of several sauces including red chile mustard, green chile and cheese or chipotle barbecue, and the sausage is stuffed in.

Montoya said he has been successful serving the dogs from food trucks, but added a brick-and-mortar location in February.

Patrons have a choice of 1/4 pound Polish sausage or Nathan’s beef sausage. At $5 each, the dogs might seem pricey, but it’s a good deal for a filling lunch or snack. The green chile and cheese sauce was terrific, flavorful and just spicy enough. Montoya said he hopes to break the chain of bad luck at his new site. Torpedo Dog will also be present at The Pit and Lobo Field for home games, Montoya said.

Just across the street is Sombreros in the old Murai Light and Healthy Japanese restaurant’s site. Sombreros, which also opened in February, serves burgers as well as Mexican and New Mexican food. I’ve been told the burgers are awesome, smothered with a vast panoply of toppings. The other side of the menu is rich with traditional Mexican and New Mexican dishes.

The chile rellenos are among the best I’ve had in New Mexico. The carne asada tacos were also fantastic. The beef was marinated nicely and cooked perfectly, not dry and overdone as is too often the case. The carnitas were also wonderful, juicy and tasty.

In keeping with a UNM theme, they offer a Lobo tacos plate: three ground beef tacos in red corn shells. The shells are obviously made of dyed corn meal, but the tacos are very good. Most entrées come with rice and beans (both of which are good) as well as chips and a mild but flavorful house-made salsa.

The site itself is clean and slick. The walls are lined with flat-screen TVs showing soccer and other sports. Service is exceptional for such a casual place. It is nice to have an inexpensive and high-quality joint so close to campus.

A few doors down is Kai’s Chinese restaurant, which has taken first place every year in the Lobo poll for best Chinese restaurant for more than a decade. To my dismay, the restaurant was closed for renovation most of the summer.

The grand re-opening was originally scheduled for Sept. 2, but was delayed until Sept. 15. The place certainly needed a facelift, especially the graffiti-covered hole-in-the-wall exterior. The restaurant looks so much better now. The fresh paint and spotless open kitchen are a refreshing sight. Kai’s is back and ready to offer tasty Asian food at a surprisingly low price.

Business seemed a bit sparse recently, but there’s no doubt the eatery will soon be thronged at lunch time every weekday once the word gets out that they are back in business. While the lunch menu is good, the dinner menu is much more varied, and since the dinner hours are not as frantic and rushed, this is a nice place for a leisurely dinner.

Another local favorite is the Bricklight Dive. Don’t be fooled by the “dive” part. It is clean and laid back. While the Dive is a good choice for lunch, it is even better once the day is done. A wide variety of draft beers, mostly local, and a menu full of cheap eats makes this a nice place to relax after class to gird your loins for homework.

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The pizza is good, if not exceptional, and the sandwiches are first-class. One of the best deals is the bruschetta plate. Mix and match three varieties for $5. There are meat-free options including my favorite, Bartlett pear, goat cheese and candied walnuts. The white bean, prosciutto and rosemary bruschetta is also an excellent example of this trendy dish.

The baby of the district is Rude Boy Cookies. Opened July 25, this Ska-themed bakery and ice cream shop is owner Kristin Dowling’s first business venture after she graduated the culinary arts program at CNM. The shop offers gourmet, scratch-baked cookies, cookie ice cream sandwiches and a milk bar.

Dowling said she was pleased at the late-night business the store is enjoying. A tasty cookie and ice-cold whole milk or low-fat chocolate milk can certainly satisfy an after-dark craving. Dowling also offers vegan and gluten-free treats for those with dietary restrictions.

Located right between main campus and University Heights, the Bricklight District is among the more bike- and pedestrian-friendly areas in town. Take a walk or ride and enjoy the local flavor.

Steve “Mo” Fye is a freelance food writer for the Daily Lobo. He can be reached at culture@dailylobo.com or on Twitter @DailyLobo.

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