by Lorinda Toledo
Daily Lobo
Savvy foodies know Don Yasmany Cuban Restaurant and Bakery is the best Cuban restaurant in the city.
If that isn't reason enough to patronize Don Yasmany's, at 4801 Central Ave. N.E., the high-quality Cuban cuisine at rock-bottom prices should convince potential customers.
The small cafe is cozy and lively, with spring-green walls and fiesta-inspired Cuban decor. A portrait of the Virgin Mary is painted on a sliver of wall overlooking the dining room.
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Dining at Don Yasmany's is like taking a trip to a traditional Cuban kitchen. There are probably enough options to have a different meal every day of the month. The best part is getting to build your own plate. You select an entree and a couple sides, and it all arrives together on a huge platter.
The staff is patient and more than willing to explain anything and everything on the
bilingual menu.
Flaky, golden appetizer pastries, pastels (75 cents-$1), are filled with soft beef, coconut, guava or cream cheese to warm up your taste buds.
Entrees include a roasted half chicken with yellow rice ($5.50), Cuban sandwiches and a variety of seasoned meat plates.
The red snapper ($12.95) is served whole - head, tail and all. Don't shy away from its grinning face; it's juicy, rich and fried in traditional Cuban seasonings.
The pork is roasted with the skin intact and marinated in a red sauce that brings out the juicy factor, resulting in a slightly crispy, flavorful dish. It contrasts nicely with the arroz congr° ($1.95), velvety black beans mixed with dark purple rice.
The steaks ($7.65) are sliced thinly, marinated and served breaded or with a light sauce and sauteed onions. Steaks are served with French fries, lettuce and tomatoes.
The Cubano sandwich ($4.35) is filled with thick ham, cheese, crispy onions, lettuce and
tomato.
Tostones ($2), fried green plantains, are similar to steak fries. They're a bit bland on their own, but adding a little salt or haba§ero sauce enhances their simple flavor.
Maduros ($2), fried plantains, are small, sweet banana-like fruits with the consistency of roasted marshmallows. Maduros melt in your mouth and leave you wanting more.
Yucca frita ($2.55), fried yucca root, is soft, slightly sticky and tender.
Don Yasmany's tamales ($2) differ from traditional New Mexican tamales. These consist of soft masa sprinkled with steamed corn and ham.
Batidos ($2), smoothies, come in a variety of fruit flavors, such as guava and banana, but the chocolate one is light, malted and delicious.
Strong Cuban coffee ($1) is served in a demitasse cup or mixed with sweet milk and served in a porcelain coffee
mug ($1.60).
The feast's not over until the flan ($1.65) arrives in its vanilla splendor - thick, petal-shaped and richly textured.
Don Yasmany's Cuban Restaurant and Bakery
4801 Central Ave. N.E.
Monday-Saturday
10 a.m.-9 p.m.
